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Archive for July, 2010

Loden Dager’s bumfreezer

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

This gent to the left is pretty darn tall, but check out that seriously truncated jacket he’s rocking. Looks like he raided a fifth-grader’s closet. A British fifth-grader attending an upper-crusty public school, that is. Any good Anglophile (or casual Wikipedia user) knows that at Eton College “from the 19th century until 1967, boys under the height of 5′4″ were required to wear the Eton suit, which replaced the tailcoat with the cropped Eton jacket (known colloquially as a “bum-freezer”).” Nice to imagine some wizened old headmaster looking after the sartorial challenges faced by the shrimpy kids falling asleep in his Latin class. Headmasters get a bad rap, I say.

In any case, I would have missed Eton’s cutoff by an inch, but my curiosity may be enough to motivate me to stop by Uniqlo in SoHo next month when this jacket debuts (May 16 supposedly).

The piece is part of the new mini-collection by Loden Dager, the latest invitee to Uniqlo’s Designer Invitation Projects. There’s a slideshow of the line on men.style, but most of the stuff looks horribly long and stretched out — more suited to the tall, skinny European-looking male model pictured. This American short-arse is most interested in the aforementioned “notch-lapel two-button blazer with shirting material lining the sleeves,” which will retail for $79.50, according to Men.Style. “Think circa ‘68,” Loden Dager’s Alexander Galan says of his inspiration. “Scooter rallies at Brighton Beach, mods lounging at Parisian sidewalk cafés, sipping Pernod in the summer heat.” Time to get the Vespa out of storage.

Long-sleeve button-downs:

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

In any case, it may not matter that much in this case. The Loden Dager stuff looked cool online, but up-close and in-person it seemed cheaply made and disposable. Worst of all was the flimsy cotton jacket.

But enough with the negatives. If you find yourself at Uniqlo anytime soon, they’ve still got plenty of stuff for short guys, especially for summer.

the cut of these in XS is great for short and relatively slender guys ($39.50). Plus, many of them are made with CoolMax technology — perfect for June weddings (and July and August subway slogs).
Flat-front chinos: picked up a couple pairs of these in my waist size last year and they have a perfect short rise. Haven’t seen any since, though, so I’ve been cursing myself for not buying more at the time. I got really excited when I noticed they had tons of them out on the sale racks at the back of the men’s floor on Friday, but they didn’t have any in my waist size. So I’m back to cursing myself. But if you have a 32-inch+ waist, you might be in luck (most of them were 34-40 and I saw a few 32s).
Washed Dry Stretch Pique Polos: Remember when I was lamenting the over-long polos at American Eagle the other day? Uniqlo has scads of them in a variety of colors on sale for $10 (down from $30). They’re fitted but casual, shoulder seams are where they should be, and the bottom hem is nice and high. Perfect for casual, untucked summer wear. Look for them back in the sale section.

A GLORIOUS TWELFTH FOR PRINGLE

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

This year’s Glorious Twelfth will mean something different to one Scottish company, even if it is a day that the local game birds won’t much fancy. In a move that will stir memories of Argyles and twinsets, Pringle of Scotland has chosen August 12 as a “day of record” at its headquarters in Hawick in the Scottish Borders. It is part of the company’s effort to build a proper archive – an Antiques Roadshow-type public open day, during which they are appealing to people to bring in sweaters, photographs, anecdotes and memorabilia connected with the company’s 195-year history.

It is an intelligent idea that has more integrity than a calculated publicity stunt. Mary-Adair Macaire, Pringle’s CEO, has handed over the research project to academics – but with a twist that will have a future fashion pay-off. Alistair O’Neill, who heads a curatorial degree course at Central Saint Martins, will deploy his students to catalogue Pringle’s existing collection to museum standards, and set them to work ferreting out more evidence in the form of adverts, magazine articles, knitting patterns and press photographs. Along with the donations and verbal accounts gleaned on August 12, it is hoped that a coherent picture of Pringle’s claim to fame in golfing sweaters and twinsets will begin to emerge.

It is possible that one of the leads might end up in a royal archive. It was that snappy dresser, the Duke of Windsor, who first made Pringle Argyles de rigueur for golf. The twinset – a term supposedly coined by Pringle – meanwhile, simultaneously became the upper-crust lady’s standby from the Thirties to the Sixties, worn by Margot Fonteyn, Grace Kelly and countless others. The fashion twist in the tale is that Central Saint Martins Masters fashion students will also be designing Pringle sweaters for their degree collections next February.

telegraph fashion

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

As with so much of British life, it is at Marks & Spencer that the true state of the nation can be gauged. “Our customer still expects structure,” says Adam Barton, M&S’s buyer for men’s suits, which quashes the idea of an imminent, half-lined revolution in offices up and down the land. “It’s an interesting dilemma, to try and make a garment that’s as lightweight as possible within the restrictions we have. Our customers want a suit that won’t make them sweat, but, at the same time, they don’t want a suit to collapse.”

Barton’s answer to this is a lightweight suit that still has enough padding and lining to reassure his customers that they are getting perceived value-for-money. “It has a lightweight chest canvas and fusing, as well as a lightweight shoulder pad that really keeps the structure.” Barton says the suit (£149, 0845 302 1234) was introduced to 10 stores this summer and has been such a success that he intends to go big on it come next summer. He is also proud of a fabric called Miracle Linen, which he says is “to a certain extent, crease-resistant. And if you wear it for a prolonged period, it only needs a gentle iron and the creases come out.”

It seems that progress will be made in small steps, but there are other more everyday tips for suit wearers. Don’t treat the lunch hour like it’s a mini-holiday: keep out of the sun and stay in the shade. Wear shirts with a buttoned cuff, so there’s less fabric at the wrist and it’s easier to roll up the sleeves. Whenever possible, take off the jacket to try and keep cool. And, until we all hot-desk from home or trade from our bedrooms, remember that while we Brits think we’ve got summer bad, remember there are businessmen elsewhere who have got it much worse. If we follow their lead, we can deal with it much better.

Sleeves are a strong fashion statement again in other looks

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

Fashion designer Christopher Bailey, captured for Burberry the nostalgia of Princess Margaret.  In her hey day she looked youthful, worldly and sophisticated.  To cap this, she also owned a couture wardrobe and it is elements of this that have crept into his range for Burberry Prorsum shown last September.  Left a look from Burberry.

Fabulous print duster coats were also shown at Dries Van Noten, sumptuous silk dusters at Alberta Ferretti and Burberry opted to go with brocade coats.   Duster coats soon became a strong directional trend.   Burberry’s princess/debutante coat was magnificent in both silhouette and lush gold brocade fabric.  The overall fashion look means swishing full skirts, wide shoulder enhancing collars and bertha necklines, all in marvellous fabrics.

The looser comfy duster style sat easily over fuller skirts and fuller dresses and is about to do the same again as the more voluminous lower silhouette needs a fuller, easier elegantly cut coat.  Simple in cut and often edge to edge and with three quarter sleeves, these coats easily lend themselves to lavish sumptuous fabrics such as rich gold brocade, duchess satin, tapestry style brocade, ribbed ottoman silks, cloque, twilled silks, plisse and textured cotton pique.

Debutante dresses worn under the duster coats have clean lines, but it is the rich materials that create the princess/ royal/debutante/real lady effect.  So to achieve this look make sure the garments you select are in interesting material.

What female doesn’t want to feel like a princess? 

A fashion staple, the belted trench coat comes in many lengths and acts as a versatile easy throw on coat or Mac suitable for many occasions. The trench coat is a practical cover up fashion garment for the season.  Other trenches are more voluminous in the lower skirt.
 
Jackets
 
 Jackets are short and skimming with modern clean boxy, sixties lines. (Original sixties sketches and here)  They are easy to team with wide cut leg trousers creating an overall effect of snappy elegance.

Look out for more bolero versions, matador jackets and Kimono wrap looser line jackets.  There are also short belted trench coats and wrap style jacket coats with turn back lower lapels, but no back collar stand.   Many of these styles are easy to make and customise yourself.

Instant Update – Sixties Silhouette

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

The uncluttered, clean, space age, Sixties-style silhouette of simple clean necklines will ensure an easy and transforming fashion update.

Sixties style clothing and haircuts are inspired by Sienna Miller as Edie Sedgwick in Factory Girl.  Look out for Mod influenced swinging mini dresses and short skirts

Think of the modern, crisp, space age fashion silhouette, shapes of André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne.  These simple designs make up well in opulent, rich, fashion fabrics that have a surface quality, which is destroyed when cut with too many seams.

The shorter A line dresses all help focus on the legs as a statement.

This is a minimal, barely there, modern look, where graceful dressing is an art.  No fuss, no frills, no clutter, just an elegant 60s silhouette with good design and top quality fabrics.  The materials should be opulent and rich combined with good well cut tailoring without trim or embellishment. 

Brocade is a trend to watch.  

I estimate that by this autumn, brocade, brocatelle and damask jacquard textures will seriously rival tweed and makes this material a good choice for carry through investment pieces.

Acquire this minimal fashion look with ease when you concentrate on combining gracious coats in straight or A-line duster shape, simple A-line skirts and easy shift dresses.

Strong graphic prints and baby doll looks are part of 60’s Mods look, all moving toward a new fashion direction and a new sartorial mood.

The duster coat looks ultra modern and is the perfect cover-all coat for spring dresses.  The duster coat was a 1950s and 1960s fashion mainstay.  It was a perfect lightweight, easy wear cover-up for not only spring, but also for a chilly summer evening.  In effect a coat tidies everything up and helps create a clean and groomed finish.

This fashion look owes much to Burberry and Dior.  House of Dior created double breasted 60’s coats with a wide set collar in pure Jackie Kennedy style.  Many of the new style coats shaped with a 60s cut, have the fashionable three quarter or seven eighths sleeves.  Some styles are a little more fitted, but the fabrics are the trademark of a good duster coat.

Do Not Think That Someone Had Left A very Bitter Girl

Monday, July 12th, 2010

Others left for a talk about men and women will be left sympathetic about it, sob boo again. Unknown really confused as the people that left men and women who are left living in misery general. Depth of them to see their living conditions, before we know far more people had the day’s pleasant to imagine much, much more fun. Even said that most of them live gusto and colorful.
    
    Small distance in a bank, as the white-collar Italian family of her daily life is full of by row. I have no time to love and to find a boyfriend. She said.
    
    After work, she was going to yoga, then she was going to study oil painting. Then went back home to take a bath or listening to music at home or with friends to go clubbing. No longer on the Road to visit the parents home. Half-day Saturdays and Sundays at home out of health, a half-day to go shopping with friends. The rest of the picnic or to the suburbs to go to the spa bath or on. The annual leave will be playing her backpack when traveling. The kind of day I might go on straight knowing. She said.
    
    Qiu Qiu at an advertising firm to do planning clerks. 20-year-old, she still seems like so carefree girl, early twenties, and out of the ground all day Xiao Hehe.
    
    Not find a man to marry, do not to become surplus when married women had not. Some people joked.
    
    Afraid of? Marry a person is also very good ah! She replied.
    
    Yes, Even though the income is not too high, but Qiuqiu to arrange their own life very well, she said, eating is not necessarily to eat good, but it must have a nutrition; wear may not be famous, but it must be comfortable ; living need not be luxurious, but it must be warm; when he has time to play badminton but she met a group of users with common interests. I think this is fine. She said.
    
    Liu Ping is a name brand clothing store in charge. She sold name brand, but do not wear name brand. I know that wearing a name brand is good looking, is the obvious identity, but that is too stiff, uncomfortable. Liu Ping says. So while her work is always to put their lives casual dress, friends who gave her nickname “leisure family.”
    
    Liu Ping is experienced through love, and more than once.
    
    Love too hard! Liu Ping said.
    
    If it was not always the parents urging, I might fall in love in this life will not marry. Liu Ping said.
    
    Although Liu Ping did not say love, not marriage. But she especially enjoyed the current “left women” life, you see, I am much more comfortable over time! A family hungry people eat. Sometimes to see friends for the children anxious to find a good nanny lit, because the child has a serious illness a small disaster sighed, and her husband do not want to go home when conflicts arise, Liu Ping City “Xingzaiyuehuo” to say how good you look at me , there is no need to worry about these things distracting. From “Do not think that someone had left a very bitter woman”

The Strongest In the History Of Flight Attendants!

Monday, July 12th, 2010

1, (boarding, the stewardess MM welcoming in the plane door, up a handsome guy … …), air hostesses MM: “Welcome to flight, what seat would you?” Guy: “I am a Scorpio, you!” Stewardess (a look of shy-like): “Really Well, a coincidence Oh, yeah … … I am also a Scorpio,” lined up behind the passengers fainted. 2, (boarding is completed, radio, roll … …) Attendant: “Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to take this flight, you sit on the runway, fasten your seat belts, our plane will take off soon … …” Passengers Puhan … …, 3, (a state of the aircraft at take-off, the roar of a great flight attendants A and B sitting in first class flight attendant chat … …) Stewardess A: “see, that visitors nose exposed, and Oh ~” Stewardess B: “can not hear, you say?” A flight attendant have to shout to repeat them again and still shaking his head stewardess B hear. At this moment the passengers came up to me, leans stewardess B ear, said: “Miss, she said that my nose came off!” 4, (aircraft finally “crawl” on the high altitude, into stable flight, flight attendants began to get drinks … …), a male passenger rang the call bell. Attendant: “Sir, What can help?” Male passengers silent. (Probably the first time flying, he was somewhat nervous.) Flight attendant explained: “This is a call bell, and then if there is any need for it, we will promptly help you!” Male passengers nodded. MM can not return to seats and other flight attendants, calling bell rang. MM stewardess looked back and saw men stand up passengers, call bell mouth in front yelled: “Coke ~ ice ~” Attendant: … … 5, (flight attendants for drinks in the following … …) “Madam, Hello! How are you a drink?” Middle-aged female passenger said shyly: “do not drink, do not drink.” So flight attendants whispered: “Oh … for free …” Female passenger: “ah? Free ah! I want a cup of orange juice, a cup of Coke, a cup of coffee, but also … …” Finished, think of the woman passenger, and from the bag and pulled out a bottle, said: “Give me milk filling point in it! I want to drink ticket to come back.” Stewardess dizziness … … 6, (send drinks following the flight attendants cheer … …) Attendant: “Sir, you are drinking orange juice or apple juice to drink?” Passenger: “You have apple juice here smell it?” Flight attendants continue to dizziness in the … … 7, (stewardess helping the wall for drinks in the … …) Attendant: “Hello, Is there anything I can do for you? Passenger: “can be a glass of water?” Attendant: “Of course, mineral water, right?” Passenger: “There is fruit juice?” Attendant: “Yes, orange juice and peach juice, which does need to?” Passenger: “There is coke?” Attendant: “Yes, you need ice?” Passenger: “Then give me a coffee!” ‘? Flight attendants. . . . . . 8, (MM stewardess holding two coffee back? Cabin … …) At this time, a passenger asked the flight attendant pointed out the window: “Miss, this is what Lake ah?” MM stewardess replied: “coffee pot.” Passenger dizziness in … … 9, (BUZZ, call bell rang … …) Passenger: “Miss, you have nail clippers?” Attendant: “You when I was little Ding Dong ah … …” From “in the history of most of the flight attendants! (Laughing raucously ~ ~) “